Tigers, Temples, Tuk-Tuks, and the Best Detour We Never Planned

India had been on our travel list for years, but we'd deliberately put it off.

We'd heard from so many people that India was hard travel. You needed to be an experienced traveler, they told us. You needed patience, flexibility, a strong stomach, and the ability to handle just about anything. Some of these warnings came from Indians themselves; others came from people who had traveled there and lived to tell the tale.

So we waited.

We traveled to other countries, navigated unfamiliar cultures, figured out complicated transportation systems, ate questionable things, and generally became pretty comfortable being uncomfortable.

Eventually, we decided we were ready for India.

And you know what? They weren't entirely wrong. India can be challenging. It's crowded, noisy, chaotic, and occasionally overwhelming. But was it really that hard?

Not particularly.

Maybe that's because we'd become experienced travelers. Or maybe India just wasn't quite as intimidating as everyone had led us to believe. Either way, we loved it.

Especially the people.

And the food! Oh, the food.

I'm an enthusiastic carnivore, but India might be the only country where I could happily eat vegetarian food for weeks without feeling deprived. The spices, the curries, the paneer, the breads, the street snacks—everything was bursting with flavor. We ate extraordinarily well, and some of our favorite meals didn't involve meat at all.

The trip was originally inspired by a Uniworld cruise along the Ganges River and a tour of India's Golden Triangle. But naturally, we couldn't leave it at that. We added a tiger safari, the temples of Khajuraho, and time in Mumbai and Goa.

And then, just when we thought the adventure was over, conflict in the Middle East disrupted our flights home and gave us an unexpected bonus: Kerala.

By the time we finally left India, we'd spent nearly a month exploring a country that had surprised us in just about every way imaginable.

It was beautiful, fascinating, sometimes exhausting, frequently hilarious, and almost always delicious.

And it quickly became one of my favorite countries.

Chand Baori: Our First Taste of India

We hadn't even been in India long enough to recover from our flight before we were off on our first adventure.

Our first stop, almost immediately after landing, was Chand Baori, the spectacular ancient stepwell in Abhaneri.

Imagine thousands of narrow steps descending in perfectly geometric patterns into the earth.

It's almost hypnotic.

Built more than a thousand years ago, this enormous stepwell was designed to collect and conserve water in a region where every drop mattered. But its practical purpose doesn't begin to explain how extraordinary it looks.

The repeating staircases create an almost impossible geometric pattern, and every angle seems to offer a different perspective.

We'd barely arrived in India, and already I was taking far too many photographs.

If this was how our trip was going to begin, I couldn't wait to see what came next.

Into Tiger Country: Bandhavgarh National Park

Our next adventure took us to tiger country. We flew to Jabalpur, where Rakesh, our driver from Trinetra Tours, met us for the journey to Bandhavgarh National Park.

Driving in India is an adventure in itself. Cars, motorcycles, trucks, pedestrians, and the occasional wandering cow all seem to share the road according to rules that aren't immediately apparent to outsiders. Rakesh handled it all while we watched the countryside roll past.

Our destination was Bandhavgarh National Park, where we hoped to see Bengal tigers in the wild.

And we did!

There is something extraordinary about seeing a tiger in its natural habitat. No fences, no zoo enclosure, just an enormous, magnificent predator moving through the forest as though we weren't even there.

Although sometimes, when one stalked directly toward us, it was considerably more thrilling!

Our naturalist guide, Bhuwan, was fantastic. He understood the forest, knew how to read the signs of wildlife, and was also an excellent photographer.

That last part was particularly fortunate, because cell phones weren't permitted in the park, and I had neglected to bring my DSLR.

Yes, I traveled halfway around the world to photograph tigers and didn't bring the right camera.

Thankfully, Bhuwan shared his beautiful photographs with us.

Our stay at Oberoi Vindhyavilas was another highlight. The property was beautiful, but what I remember most was the staff. By the time we left, saying goodbye felt a little like leaving family.

Khajuraho: Erotic Temples and the Real Holi

From Bandhavgarh, we continued to Khajuraho, famous for its remarkable ancient temples.

And yes, some of the carvings are rather explicit.

The temples are covered with intricate sculptures depicting mythology, spirituality, everyday life, and human relationships. But I suspect it's the more adventurous interpretations of human relationships that most visitors remember.

As luck would have it, our visit coincided with Holi, India's famous festival of colors.

We were out exploring when we stumbled upon a group of about eight local men celebrating with an enthusiasm that was absolutely contagious. They were dancing rhythmically together, throwing brightly colored powder into the air, and occasionally smearing it all over one another.

Before we knew it, we were right in the middle of their celebration.

And they were thrilled to have us!

They welcomed us into the group, encouraged us to participate, and even fed me little sweet snacks. I had no idea what I was eating, but when someone is happily feeding you sweets in the middle of a Holi celebration, you eat the sweets.

There was music, laughter, dancing, and colored powder everywhere. By the time we left, we were thoroughly decorated in shades of yellow and orange.

It was gritty, chaotic, colorful, and completely immersive.

Nobody was performing for tourists. These guys were simply having the time of their lives, and they were genuinely excited to share the experience with us.

Then we returned to our hotel, which was hosting its own Holi celebration for the guests.

We arrived already covered in color, only to discover a much more carefully orchestrated affair. Everything was bright, cheerful, and remarkably clean. We added a few pinks and purples to our existing palette, stayed about five minutes, and left.

It was fine.

But frankly, we could have done something similar at a hotel in the United States.

The hotel's version was a pleasant little tourist activity.

What we'd experienced earlier was Holi.

And there was simply no comparison.

Delhi, Agra, and Jaipur: India’s Golden Triangle

After Khajuraho, we joined Uniworld's Golden Triangle tour, visiting three of northern India's most famous cities.

Delhi was a fascinating collision of old and new, with historic monuments, bustling markets, chaotic traffic, and seemingly endless layers of history.

Agra gave us the Taj Mahal, one of those rare places that really does live up to the photographs. The symmetry, the craftsmanship, the sheer beauty of the building—it's difficult not to be impressed.

And Jaipur, the Pink City, brought grand palaces, elaborate architecture, colorful markets, and some spectacular accommodations.

We stayed at beautiful Oberoi properties throughout this part of the trip, and the service was extraordinary. At the Oberoi Rajvilas in Jaipur, we were welcomed with rose petals raining down from a balcony above us.

I could get used to that.

But one of my favorite experiences had nothing to do with luxury hotels or famous monuments.

Dinner With Tapas, Krishna, and Arjun

We had been working with Trinetra Tours throughout our independent travels, and Tapas, who helped arrange our adventures, became much more than just a name on an itinerary.

He invited us to his home for dinner with his wife, Krishna, and their son, Arjun.

I've traveled extensively and met wonderful guides all over the world, but being welcomed into someone's private home is a rare privilege.

We had the opportunity to sit down together, share a meal, and get to know the family behind the company that had been helping us explore India.

That evening meant more to me than another palace or temple ever could.

It's experiences like these that remind me why I love traveling. The famous sights may be what get us on the airplane, but the people are often what stay with us.

Parveen: Airport Transfers, Laundry, and Flowers

Then there was Parveen, one of the people from Trinetra Tours who helped us in Delhi.

He picked us up from the airport several times, but he did much more than shuttle us between terminals and hotels.

At one point, we needed laundry done. Parveen found someone to wash our clothes, arranged everything, picked them up, and delivered them to our hotel.

Now that's service.

He also took us to a flower market so we could buy flowers for Krishna before our dinner at Tapas's home.

These weren't grand, once-in-a-lifetime travel experiences. They were small gestures and practical kindnesses that made us feel looked after.

And they're exactly the sorts of things I remember.

Cruising the Ganges: Village Life, New Friends, and a Suspected Spy

The experience that originally inspired our trip was a cruise aboard Uniworld's Ganges Explorer II.

We boarded in Kolkata after a slightly eventful morning.

One of our fellow passengers had been detained because he was carrying a personal GPS device used for hiking. Apparently, someone suspected he might be a spy.

Not exactly the way you want to begin a luxury river cruise.

Fortunately, we eventually made it to the ship, where we were greeted with rose petals, marigold garlands, and the kind of attentive service that makes Uniworld so enjoyable.

The cruise took us through rural Bengal, where we visited villages, temples, markets, and historic towns along the Hooghly River, part of the Ganges river system.

I loved watching daily life unfold along the riverbanks.

Fishermen cast their nets from small wooden boats. Women washed clothes at the ghats. Children waved as we passed. Farmers tended brilliant green rice paddies.

It was a completely different experience from the cities.

And then there were our fellow passengers.

One of the things I love about small-group travel and river cruising is how quickly strangers can become friends. We met some genuinely wonderful people on this cruise, shared adventures and plenty of laughs, and have kept in touch with several of them since returning home.

The destinations were fascinating, but the company made the experience even better.

The People Along the River

In Matiari, we watched artisans making traditional bell-metal products in small workshops, using techniques passed down through generations.

In Murshidabad, we went on a little adventure with our tuk-tuk driver in search of an ATM that actually worked.

It took three attempts.

There's something particularly entertaining about bouncing around an unfamiliar Indian town in a tuk-tuk, trying one cash machine after another, and wondering whether you're ever going to get any money.

Eventually, success!

Not exactly a scheduled excursion, but certainly memorable.

In Baranagar, we were greeted by a group of enthusiastic children who became completely fascinated with John, one of our fellow passengers.

John was tall, with white hair, and the children absolutely loved him.

He taught them to high-five, which was apparently the greatest thing they'd ever encountered.

They probably would have happily kept him there all day.

We also watched villagers making cigarettes, weaving, tending to their homes, and playing cricket.

Some of our fellow cruisers joined the cricket game, including an Australian couple who actually knew what they were doing.

They were good!

The rest of us were content to watch the international sporting competition unfold.

It was another of those lovely, spontaneous moments that no tour operator could ever completely orchestrate.

A Spiritual Experience in Mayapur

Mayapur was one of the more thought-provoking stops.

We visited the international headquarters of the Hare Krishna movement, where our guide, Pushpa, patiently explained the beliefs and practices of the community.

The chanting, rituals, and intensity of the devotional atmosphere were fascinating, although I occasionally felt as though we were intruding on something deeply personal.

It also prompted me to reflect on my own religious upbringing and the similarities and differences between spiritual traditions.

Travel isn't always about feeling comfortable. Sometimes the most meaningful experiences are the ones that challenge your assumptions.

Pani Puri, Questionable Hygiene, and Our Remarkably Cooperative Stomachs

In Chandannagar, I opted to stay aboard the ship for a massage.

Vuong, meanwhile, went exploring with DJ Tasty, one of our fellow travelers.

They found a street vendor making pani puri, those delicate, hollow, crispy shells filled with potatoes, spices, and flavored water.

The vendor assembled each one by hand, without gloves or utensils, and dropped it directly into Vuong's palm.

Delicious? Apparently.

A potential gastrointestinal adventure? Also apparently.

Now, lest anyone think Vuong is the adventurous eater in our marriage while I sit around demanding sanitized utensils and bottled water, let me set the record straight.

I'm every bit as adventurous as he is.

Possibly more.

I love street food. I love trying unfamiliar dishes. I'll eat things I can't pronounce, things I can't identify, and things that would probably make a health inspector faint.

I'll even eat bugs.

Vuong will too, sometimes. But when we encountered scorpions in Bangkok, he passed.

Just sayin'.

Of course, my enthusiasm for culinary adventure may explain why I usually end up with some sort of gastrointestinal souvenir on at least one occasion during most trips.

Oddly enough, India was the exception.

After weeks of eating our way across the country, sampling street food, trying unfamiliar dishes, and generally tempting fate, neither of us got sick.

In India!

The country everyone had warned us would test our digestive fortitude!

I'm not sure whether to credit luck, increasingly resilient stomachs, or divine intervention.

But I'll take it.

Mumbai: Bollywood, Bicycles, and Beautiful Chaos

Mumbai quickly became our favorite of India's big cities.

It's enormous, crowded, energetic, and endlessly fascinating.

We spent three nights there, and somehow managed to pack in enough activities for twice that long.

Our guide, Chandana, was a feisty Indian mama who kept us moving from morning until night.

And I mean morning.

She insisted we start one tour at 5:30 a.m.

I wasn't entirely enthusiastic about that idea, but she was right.

Watching Mumbai wake up was one of the most interesting experiences of our trip.

We visited newspaper distribution centers, bustling markets, the famous dabbawalas who deliver home-cooked lunches across the city, and Dhobi Ghat, where enormous quantities of laundry are washed by hand.

We also learned about people who sweep the streets around the jewelry district searching for tiny flecks of gold.

In Mumbai, apparently, even the dust has economic potential.

Cycling Through Mumbai

We also took an early-morning bicycle tour, which was a wonderful idea until the traffic started picking up.

Suddenly, we were sharing the streets with cars, scooters, pedestrians, carts, and just about every other form of transportation imaginable.

It was a little harrowing.

But we survived, and we saw parts of Mumbai we never would have discovered from a tour bus.

One particularly memorable stop was a hidden animal sanctuary where we were able to feed rescued cows.

And after all that excitement, Vuong stopped at a local barber for a haircut, shave, head massage, and eyebrow grooming.

The total cost was around two dollars.

I'm fairly certain that wouldn't even cover the tip back home.

Our Bollywood Debut

We had recently discovered Indian movies and were becoming enthusiastic fans.

If you haven't watched a good Indian action movie, you're missing out. The special effects are outrageous, the heroes are impossibly handsome, and the action sequences often defy every known law of physics.

Naturally, we had to visit a Bollywood studio.

We watched filming, learned about special effects, tried some Bollywood dancing, and even recorded a karaoke performance of "I'm Gonna Be (500 Miles)."

I'm sure the sound technicians were thrilled.

We also made our very own miniature zombie movie in front of a green screen.

I don't expect Hollywood—or Bollywood—to come calling anytime soon.

Dharavi: A Lesson in Looking Beyond Appearances

One of the most meaningful experiences in Mumbai was our tour of Dharavi.

Our guide, Amaan, had grown up there, and he helped us see the community through a very different lens.

Dharavi is often described simply as a slum, but that word doesn't begin to capture the extraordinary amount of work, entrepreneurship, and community life happening within its narrow lanes.

We visited workshops where people recycled plastics, crafted leather goods, and manufactured everyday products.

The living and working conditions were challenging, but what struck me most was the ingenuity and determination of the people we met.

It was an important reminder that we shouldn't assume we understand someone's life simply by looking at where they live.

Eating Our Way Through Mumbai

And then there was the food.

Chandana introduced us to Mumbai's incredible street-food culture, although our tasting tour took place in the air-conditioned comfort of a restaurant.

We tried pav bhaji, pani puri, sev batata puri, and royal falooda.

Some were instant favorites. Others, not so much.

Then, despite being completely full, we went to Trishna for a seafood dinner.

Because apparently we have no self-control when it comes to good food.

The garlic butter crab was fantastic, and the service was so attentive that I half expected the waiters to start feeding us.

We waddled out very happy.

Goa: Finally, a Little Relaxation

After weeks of temples, markets, safaris, cities, and early morning tours, Goa was exactly what we needed.

We settled into Palolem Beach, where life moved at a much slower pace.

Beachfront accommodations, seafood, massages, sunsets, and long, lazy evenings.

For once, we didn't feel compelled to fill every minute with sightseeing.

We could simply enjoy being there.

And we thought Goa would be the end of our India adventure.

India, however, had other plans.

Kerala: The Unexpected Gift of a Canceled Flight

Our original return flights were booked in Emirates Business Class using points.

It was going to be a lovely, comfortable trip home.

Then conflict in the Middle East closed airspace and disrupted our flights through Dubai.

Suddenly, our carefully planned return journey wasn't happening.

I spent a considerable amount of time searching for alternatives, and some of the available tickets were outrageously expensive.

Rather than pay a fortune to get home immediately, we decided to make the best of the situation.

We extended our time in India and headed south to Kerala.

By overnight train.

The Great Indian Train Adventure

Tapas had suggested hiring a porter at the train station, explaining that Indian trains are enormous and that porters know exactly where each carriage stops.

Naturally, we decided we could figure it out ourselves.

We could not.

When the train arrived, we climbed aboard the first sleeper coach we found.

Unfortunately, it wasn't ours.

What followed was an awkward expedition through what felt like half the train, dragging our luggage past passengers who were already settling in for the night.

Somewhere in that enormous train was our private two-berth cabin.

We eventually found it.

Next time, I'm listening to Tapas.

Kerala: A Different Side of India

Kerala was absolutely beautiful.

Lush green landscapes, coconut palms, tropical waterways, historic trading towns, and a completely different atmosphere from northern India.

We explored the region, enjoyed the food, and experienced traditional performances that were unlike anything we'd seen elsewhere.

One of my favorites was Theyyam, a ritual performance featuring elaborate costumes, dramatic makeup, enormous headdresses, and powerful drumming.

It was mesmerizing.

We also saw Kalaripayattu, the traditional martial art of Kerala, with its extraordinary combination of flexibility, strength, and acrobatics.

And Kathakali, a classical dance-drama known for its elaborate makeup, expressive facial movements, and intricate gestures that tell stories without relying on spoken dialogue.

It was fascinating to watch performers communicate so much through their eyes, hands, and movements.

What began as an unwanted travel disruption had turned into one of the highlights of our entire trip.

Kerala wasn't a consolation prize.

It was a gift.

The Long Way Home

Eventually, we found a way home through Kuala Lumpur.

Malaysia hadn't been part of our original itinerary, but suddenly we had an excuse to visit a city we'd been curious about for years.

I only had one night there before flying home, while Vuong stayed a little longer.

It was one last unexpected chapter in an already extraordinary adventure.

And a reminder that sometimes the best travel experiences happen when the original plan falls completely apart.

What Made India So Special?

India challenged me in ways few countries have.

It was loud, crowded, colorful, beautiful, sometimes uncomfortable, and almost always fascinating.

We saw extraordinary wealth and heartbreaking poverty. We stayed in magnificent hotels and walked through villages where people lived with very little. We encountered ancient traditions, modern innovation, intense spirituality, and an astonishing variety of landscapes.

But when I think back on our month in India, the memories that come first aren't necessarily the Taj Mahal or the tigers.

They're the people.

Tapas, who welcomed us into his home, introduced us to Krishna and Arjun, helped us navigate the country, and later gave us excellent advice about train porters that we foolishly ignored.

Parveen, who picked us up from airports, arranged our laundry, and took us to buy flowers for Krishna. He went well beyond what anyone could reasonably expect from an airport transfer.

Bhuwan, whose knowledge of the jungle and photography made our tiger safari unforgettable.

Chandana, who dragged us out of bed before dawn and made us fall in love with Mumbai.

Amaan, who showed us a side of Dharavi that challenged our assumptions.

Pushpa, who patiently introduced us to a spiritual world very different from our own.

And our wonderful fellow travelers aboard the Ganges Explorer II. People who started the cruise as strangers, became part of our adventures, and remain friends long after we've returned home.

There were also the wonderfully ridiculous moments: a suspected spy on our river cruise, a frantic search for an ATM, a two-dollar barber treatment, our brief careers as Bollywood zombie victims, and a luggage-hauling expedition through an Indian sleeper train.

And, of course, the food. The wonderful, flavorful, occasionally mysterious food that we ate with such enthusiasm that I'm still amazed we made it through the entire trip without getting sick.

India was not always easy.

But it was endlessly rewarding.

We arrived expecting an adventure. We left with wonderful friendships, unforgettable stories, and an entirely new appreciation for a country that quickly became one of my favorites.

And I'm already looking forward to going back.

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