Japan

Ancient Temples, Video Games, and a Whole Lot of Weirdness

Japan is a country of contrasts. Ancient temples sit alongside towering skyscrapers. Centuries-old traditions coexist with cutting-edge technology. You can spend the morning contemplating a Zen garden and the afternoon surrounded by flashing lights, video games, and grown women dressed as French maids pretending to be cats.

And somehow, it all makes sense.

We've visited Japan more than once, and each trip has given us a completely different experience. From a whirlwind Tokyo layover to a family homestay and a cruise through some lesser-visited ports, Japan has consistently surprised, entertained, and occasionally bewildered us.

And the food! Oh, the food.

My First Taste of Tokyo: Nine Hours of Chaos

My first experience in Japan was a nine-hour layover between Tokyo's Haneda and Narita airports on our way to Vietnam.

Nine hours in Tokyo? Of course I wasn't going to spend that time sitting in an airport.

We hired a private guide with an ambitious itinerary. Unfortunately, he seemed to have a rather tenuous grasp of where he was going.

We had hoped to see sumo wrestling and visit the famous fish market. Neither happened. We did drive past the Hilton, which was not exactly on my must-see list.

We made it to Tokyo Tower, where the views were wonderful, and spent what seemed like an eternity at what I remember being a Toyota museum.

Eventually, we abandoned our guide at Shibuya and explored on our own.

Now this was the Tokyo I had imagined.

The famous Shibuya Scramble Crossing, with hundreds of pedestrians moving in every direction at once. Bright lights, enormous advertisements, video game arcades, and sushi.

It was a wonderfully chaotic introduction to Japan.

And I knew I wanted to come back.

Returning to Japan With the Family

Our next visit was a family adventure with family.

This time, instead nf a conventional hotel, we arranged a five-night homestay with a Japanese couple named Yoko and Aki.

It turned out to be one of the most memorable parts of our trip.

Life With Yoko and Aki

Yoko and Aki welcomed us into their home and spent time with us, giving us a glimpse of everyday Japanese life that we never would have experienced in a hotel.

The boys slept on traditional tatami mats, and we got to experience the quirks of a Japanese household firsthand.

They also had an enormous, very fat white cat.

We absolutely loved that cat. I don't know how much time we spent playing with him, but he was definitely one of the highlights of the homestay.

Then there was the bathroom.

The bathroom we shared with the boys was unlike anything we were accustomed to. You entered an antechamber with a sink, then continued into a separate wet-room-style space with the toilet and an open bathtub. There was also a little seat and a handheld sprayer.

It was a very different arrangement from the American bathrooms we knew, and one of those little cultural details that sticks with you long after the trip.

Breakfast was another adventure.

Some mornings, Yoko and Aki served things like hot dogs and cheese toast. And then there was natto.

If you've never encountered natto, it's fermented soybeans with a sticky, stringy texture and a rather assertive smell.

Let's just say it wasn't my favorite Japanese discovery.

Fortunately, Japan also has 7-Eleven, which is practically a culinary institution. Forget what you think you know about American convenience stores. Japanese 7-Elevens are a completely different experience.

Tiny Dogs, Strollers, and the Litter Police

One of the things I loved about staying in a residential neighborhood was observing ordinary life.

Every morning, we saw people out walking their dogs. Except these weren't the big dogs we were accustomed to seeing at home. There were lots and lots of tiny dogs.

And quite a few of them were riding in baby strollers!

Apparently, even Japanese dogs appreciate a comfortable ride.

Another thing that struck us was how extraordinarily clean everything was.

There was simply no litter.

At one point, Vuong reached into his pocket while we were out walking. An older man in a uniform spotted the movement and immediately accosted him, apparently convinced that Vuong was about to throw something on the ground.

He wasn't.

But the encounter certainly reinforced the message: Japan takes cleanliness seriously!

Japanese Toilets: A Cultural Experience of Their Own

Speaking of bathrooms, we need to talk about Japanese toilets.

Japan has somehow managed to turn a basic bodily function into a technological experience.

Heated seats. Built-in bidets. Adjustable sprays. Buttons for functions I wasn't entirely sure I wanted to investigate.

And music!

Yes, music. Soothing tunes to help you relax while you do your business.

Even the toilets at a bus station were more sophisticated than many American bathrooms.

I came away wondering why the rest of the world hadn't caught up.

Tokyo: Video Games, Maid Cafés, and Other Oddities

Tokyo is a city where you can wander from an ancient Buddhist temple into a neighborhood that looks like it was designed by someone who had consumed too much caffeine and played video games for three days straight.

Naturally, we loved it.

Akihabara: A Gamer's Paradise

With two boys in tow, Akihabara was an obvious destination.

This is Tokyo's famous electronics, anime, and gaming district, filled with multistory arcades, video game shops, collectibles, and capsule toy machines called gachapon.

The boys were in heaven.

We explored the arcades and wandered through shops filled with merchandise from games and anime we'd never heard of.

We also stumbled into a manga shop with some decidedly adult material.

Let's just say the Japanese imagination is a remarkable thing, and apparently tentacles feature prominently in certain genres.

That was an education.

Maidreamin: Where the Waitresses Are Kitty Cats

One of our more memorable experiences was a visit to Maidreamin, a maid café.

If you're unfamiliar with the concept, imagine a restaurant where young women dressed in elaborate maid costumes speak in impossibly cute voices, make cat gestures, and encourage customers to participate in the silliness.

It is every bit as strange as it sounds.

We went along with it, because when in Tokyo, why not?

Was it a little ridiculous? Absolutely.

Was it entertaining? Also absolutely.

Pokémon and a Giant Snorlax

We also visited a Pokémon Center, which was a big hit with the boys.

There was Pokémon merchandise everywhere, including a giant Snorlax.

For anyone unfamiliar with Pokémon, Snorlax is an enormous, perpetually sleepy creature whose primary interests appear to be eating and sleeping.

I can relate.

Asakusa: Temples, Owls, and Sushi

Tokyo isn't all neon lights and video games.

In Asakusa, we visited Sensō-ji, one of the city's most famous Buddhist temples.

The temple's traditional architecture, bustling approach, and surrounding streets offered a completely different side of Tokyo.

We also visited an owl café, another of Japan's unusual animal-themed establishments.

And then, of course, there was sushi.

One particularly memorable meal was prepared by a chef originally from Texas.

We ate some extraordinary seafood, including albacore that was apparently still alive (!!) and uni, or sea urchin.

Japan certainly knows how to make a meal memorable.

Mario Kart Through the Streets of Tokyo

You know those videos of people driving little go-karts through Tokyo traffic dressed as video game characters?

We did that.

Well, some of us did.

The boys took to the streets in their go-karts, while Tina, Alex, and I rode in the air-conditioned support van.

It was hot. Very hot.

I was perfectly happy to watch the adventure unfold from the comfort of the van.

Sometimes the best travel decision is knowing when to sit something out.

Eating Our Way Through Tokyo

Japanese food deserves its own article, but a few experiences stand out.

We ate ramen ordered from vending-machine-style kiosks, where you select and pay for your meal before sitting down.

We enjoyed a Korean steakhouse dinner that seemed to involve an endless parade of meats.

And we discovered Japan's astonishing obsession with Kit Kats.

In America, a Kit Kat is a Kit Kat. Maybe you'll find a seasonal variation if you're lucky.

In Japan, there were flavors everywhere.

Wasabi Kit Kats? Yes.

Mint yogurt? That too.

Who looks at a chocolate-covered wafer and thinks, You know what this needs? Wasabi.

Apparently, someone in Japan.

Naturally, we had to investigate.

The Robot Restaurant: Only in Japan

Another unforgettable evening was spent at Tokyo's famous Robot Restaurant.

Trying to describe this show is nearly impossible.

Imagine enormous "robots," flashing lights, pounding music, outrageous costumes, and a spectacle so over-the-top that you can't quite believe what you're watching.

It was loud. It was bizarre. It was completely ridiculous.

Was it culturally enlightening? Probably not.

But it was a cultural experience!

And it was certainly memorable.

A Day Trip to Kyoto: Temples, Gardens, and Bullet Trains

Although we were staying in Tokyo, I wasn't about to visit Japan without seeing Kyoto.

So we took a day trip on the famous Shinkansen bullet train.

Even the journey was an experience. We picked up bento boxes and enjoyed lunch while watching the countryside rush past.

Kyoto felt like another world compared with Tokyo.

Where Tokyo dazzles with technology and neon, Kyoto offers temples, traditional gardens, and a sense of Japan's long history.

We visited several of its most famous sights.

Tenryū-ji and the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove

Tenryū-ji is a beautiful Zen Buddhist temple with a traditional landscaped garden.

Nearby, the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove is one of Kyoto's most recognizable sights, with towering bamboo rising above the pathways.

Ryōan-ji: The Zen Rock Garden

At Ryōan-ji, we saw the famous Zen rock garden.

It's a deceptively simple arrangement of rocks and carefully raked gravel, designed for contemplation.

A striking contrast to the sensory overload of Tokyo.

Kinkaku-ji: The Golden Pavilion

Kinkaku-ji, the Golden Pavilion, was another highlight.

Its upper stories are covered in gold leaf, creating a spectacular reflection in the surrounding pond.

It's one of those places that looks almost too perfect to be real.

Our Kyoto visit was brief, but it gave us a taste of a completely different side of Japan.

I'd love to return and spend more time there.

Japan by Cruise Ship: Exploring Beyond Tokyo and Kyoto

After our time in Tokyo, we flew to Beijing and boarded Royal Caribbean's Quantum of the Seas for a cruise that took us back to Japan!

Traveling by cruise ship gave us an opportunity to explore places we might not otherwise have visited.

And, as usual, the people we met along the way became part of the adventure.

There was karaoke with a future pop star (Lola Violet, we believe in you!), plenty of fun aboard the ship, and new friendships. We stay in touch with some people we met on this cruise! 

Fukuoka: Ramen and Ancient Traditions

In Fukuoka, we explored the city and enjoyed one of its most famous culinary specialties: tonkotsu ramen.

This rich, pork-bone-broth ramen originated in the region, and eating it here was a treat.

We also visited a shrine, Tōchō-ji Temple, and the Hakata Folk Museum, where we learned about local traditions and saw the elaborate festival floats associated with the city's celebrations.

Fukuoka was an interesting combination of food, history, and everyday Japanese life.

Sakaiminato: Samurai, Seafood, and Cartoon Monsters

Sakaiminato was one of the more unusual stops on our itinerary.

We toured with a guide named Hiro (Our Hiro!), who helped us explore the area and kept us entertained with his corny sense of humor and low alcohol tolerance!

Our day included wonderful sushi, a visit to Matsue Castle, and time in the historic samurai district.

Matsue Castle is one of Japan's surviving original castles, and the surrounding area offers a glimpse of the country's feudal past.

But Sakaiminato has another claim to fame.

It's associated with manga artist Shigeru Mizuki, creator of GeGeGe no Kitarō, a series featuring supernatural creatures from Japanese folklore.

Along Mizuki Shigeru Road, we encountered statues and references to these strange characters, including Kitarō and his eyeball father, Medama-Oyaji.

Yes, an eyeball father.

Japan never disappoints.

We also discovered dagashi, inexpensive traditional Japanese candies and snacks, and encountered some rather interesting local foods, including what I remember as squid balls.

Every port seemed to introduce us to something new.

Amanohashidate: Taking a Different Road

On another cruise stop, rather than returning to Kyoto, we decided to explore Amanohashidate.

The area is known for its beautiful coastal scenery and distinctive sandbar, one of Japan's celebrated scenic landscapes.

We wandered through the area, experienced a quieter side of Japan, and, naturally, found more ramen.

It was a nice change of pace from the country's larger cities.

What Makes Japan So Special?

Japan is one of those places that defies easy description.

It's meticulously clean and wonderfully orderly, yet filled with some of the strangest entertainment I've ever encountered.

People follow elaborate rules of etiquette, but you can also find grown adults playing arcade games, visiting maid cafés, and buying wasabi-flavored chocolate.

Ancient temples coexist with technological marvels.

You can eat a beautifully presented traditional meal one day and discover something utterly baffling in a convenience store the next.

And some of my favorite memories aren't from famous attractions at all.

They're from staying in Yoko and Aki's home, playing with their enormous white cat, watching tiny dogs ride through the neighborhood in strollers, and seeing Vuong get reprimanded for littering when he hadn't even taken anything out of his pocket.

Those are the moments that stay with me.

Japan is beautiful, fascinating, delicious, occasionally bewildering, and endlessly entertaining.

And I still have so much more of it to explore.