After weeks of embracing the exhilarating chaos of India—honking tuk-tuks, bustling markets, ancient temples, and cities that never seemed to pause—Goa offered something entirely different. Life slowed to the rhythm of the waves on Palolem Beach, where beachfront huts, fresh seafood, and spectacular Arabian Sea sunsets reminded us that India is a country of remarkable contrasts. Read about our experiences in Mumbai here and here.

Mumbai has a really nice airport with several lounges. They actually have a Centurion Lounge, but one of the Adani Lounges (accessed through Priority Pass) was more convenient for us. They had a nice spread of Indian food and a good selection of beverages, but we noticed a KFC in the food court, and were anxious to try the specially spiced fried chicken and paneer sandwich… the spices were great! I mean, KFC is already delicious- add a little masala and YUM! The paneer sandwich was just OK- not terribly spicy, and the paneer patties were thin. It had a nice crunch because it was basically a fried batter sandwich. Fun novelty, don’t need to do again…

The Drive

Goa’s newer Manohar International Airport (GOX), it’s surprisingly modern and has enough shopping and dining to keep you occupied for a couple of hours before your flight. The terminal includes an Encalm Lounge, free Wi-Fi, ATMs, a pharmacy, baby care rooms, charging stations, baggage services, and plenty of seating. Food options range from quick bites to sit-down restaurants, including Subway, Chaayos, Artjuna, Thalassa, Idli.com, Samba Square, Baker’s Shack, Café’ccino, and Dhaba@GOX. For shopping, you’ll find bookstores, travel essentials, handicrafts, fashion accessories, and souvenir shops. International passengers also have access to a large duty-free store selling liquor, perfumes, cosmetics, chocolates, tobacco, and Goan gifts, while domestic travelers can still shop at regular retail stores but cannot purchase duty-free items.

The 2-hour drive from Goa’s airport to Palolem Beach was a gentle introduction to a different side of India. Within minutes of leaving the bustle and construction of the airport and surrounding area, the roads narrowed and the scenery turned impossibly lush. We wound through small villages where brightly painted homes, roadside shrines, and tiny family-run shops blended into everyday life. Scooters buzzed past, children played outside, and cows wandered with the unhurried confidence of longtime residents.

As we continued south, the road climbed into the rolling hills of the Western Ghats, revealing dense tropical greenery at every turn. Coconut palms towered overhead while groves of banana plants, cashew trees, and other tropical vegetation blanketed the landscape. During the monsoon and the months that follow, much of this region is carpeted in brilliant green rice paddies, their flooded fields reflecting the sky like mirrors. It was easy to see why Goa is often described as one of India’s most verdant states.

By late afternoon, the light softened into shades of gold. The setting sun stretched long shadows across the emerald rice fields, turning the landscape into a patchwork of shimmering greens and amber highlights. Farmers worked the paddies as egrets searched for fish among the waterlogged fields, while distant church steeples and temple towers peeked above the trees. It was a quiet, beautiful drive that felt worlds away from the beaches Goa is famous for—a reminder that some of the best travel moments happen not at the destination, but on the road getting there.

Soon, we turned off the main road into a quaint seaside village, with numerous shops and cafes lining the quaint village road. We finally arrived at Art Resort Goa.

To be honest, I was nervous about this resort. I booked a beachfront honeymoon cottage for $50 USD… In my readings on Goa, staying at one of these huts seemed like the way to go for an authentic Goan experience. But after staying at lavish five-star resorts with every comfort and amenity, I became a little concerned. Was I the cool, experiential traveler I thought I was, or had I become a bougie, soft tourist ?

Since we didn’t do much in Goa- we didn’t take any tours, visit any historical sites, or participate in any extreme activities, rather than give you the blow-by-blow, I’ll just tell you about the resort, the restaurants, and the spa we visited. Part of the beauty we found in Goa was wandering and discovering on our own. I recommend you do the same!

Art Resort Goa

The entrance to Art Resort leads you down a sandy path to a wooden platform where the check-in desk is located. Everything is open-air, allowing the scent of salt water to float in on the warm sea breeze. The path and common areas are lined by original works of art, many of which depict Hindu deities and scenes from the legends that shape Indian culture. Everything else is painted in vibrant colors, from the walls to the trunks of palm trees. The resort consists entirely of individual huts with porches and balconies surrounded by flowing fabrics. It was exactly what I had expected, and it was perfect.

We checked in and were led to our beachfront honeymoon cottage. The best part was the ocean-facing verandah, furnished with a couch, two chairs, tables, an incense burner, and fresh flowers. The gauzy curtains framed a breathtaking, unobstructed view of the sun setting over the Arabian Sea. Cotton candy blues and pinks were replaced by warmer shades of orange and red before our eyes as the sun was swallowed by the sea.

Inside was a king-sized bed and a set of bunkbeds. I thought this was a bit odd, since this was a honeymoon cottage… a dresser with drawers probably would have been a better choice, since I doubt many people bring their rug rats on their honeymoon! So, we placed our suitcases on the bottom bunk and lived out of them for the 2.5 nights we were to spend here.

The decor was in keeping with the rest of the resort- colorful and whimsical, with original art pieces and photographs on the walls. A rope surrounded the top of the bed, so I enhanced the hippie vibe with a little decor of my own and draped scarves I’d bought over the ropes like a canopy. There was desk and a small closet with shelves and a safe. The bathroom served its purposes but was nothing to write home about.

Note- don’t place toilet paper in the toilet! The plumbing is delicate here, as in many places in India, and you could cause real problems.

So, yes, the contrast was real. Gone were the luxurious pillow-top mattresses with clouds of white linen, marble-tiled bathrooms with soaking tubs, and manicured landscaping… instead, we now embraced hippie charm, personalized whimsical decor that oozed personality and talent, and toes in the sand. It was perfect!

The Details

Room Types at Art Resort Goa

Whether you’re traveling as a couple, family, or group of friends, Art Resort Goa offers accommodations to fit a variety of travel styles:

• Beachfront Bungalow – Perfect for couples wanting direct beach access and stunning Arabian Sea views.
• Deluxe Double with Side Sea View – A great option for couples who want an ocean view at a lower price.
• Garden View Double – Comfortable, budget-friendly accommodations for couples or solo travelers.
• King Room with Garden View – Extra space for couples seeking a more spacious retreat.
• Garden Bungalow – Ideal for families or small groups wanting additional room and privacy.
• Studio with Garden View – Includes a kitchenette, making it a great choice for families or longer stays.
• Family Room with Side Sea View – Designed for families, featuring bunk beds for children.
• One-Bedroom Villa – Spacious accommodations for families or travelers planning an extended stay.
• Two-Bedroom Garden Villa – Best suited for larger families or groups traveling together.

Prices vary depending on season and room type but at the time of writing, the honeymoon cottage was priced at 7490 rupees (about $56) high season, while the 2-bedroom villa across the street from the beach was the most expensive choice at 12,000 rupees (about $125). Note that they are closed from June 15-August 14.

Art Resort has two sections- the one on the beach has several rows of cottages, the bar, and the restaurant. The “Prive” section is across the street from the beach and has the pool, gym, and a bar. Either section is charming and very close to the beach and village. Paved paths shaded by swaying palms and lined by flowering shrubs connect the villas in the Prive section. Both have their benefits, and every villa we saw was lovely in its own right. Some had boat-shaped bath tubs on the porch, some had elevated verandahs so you could see the ocean even if you were not directly on the beach. And, the price is right!

Service was fantastic, hospitality was warm, and the food was on point! The onsite restaurant was great. Lots of fresh seafood on the menu, and tables on the beach so you could dine with your toes in the sand. Each evening, live music at Art Resort drew crowds from other resorts- this was the place to be!

Every night, there were bonfires on the beach. We watched silhouettes dancing around them and, some nights, even saw fireworks. We were warned that the water was dirty and unswimmable, but we did not find this to be true. The water was the temperature of bathwater, clean, and calm, with gentle swells lulling me into a state of pure bliss. I could have stayed in the water for hours.

A few hippie remnants shuffled around, smoking shisha and twiddling their dreads… the bohemian vibe was still there. I couldn’t help but think of the olden days of seekers riding old buses overland, with their dreadlocks and threadbare tunics, peddling their handmade jewelry and doing odd jobs for food and shelter. I love modern comforts, but part of my gypsy soul wishes I had been born a couple of decades sooner…

I can’t recommend any other resorts in Goa, because this was the only place I’ve stayed! I can’t say Art Resort is the best, but I can say that we were well-pleased with our choice and highly recommend it! If you can leave room in your suitcase or backpack for some original art, DO IT!

Massages in Palolem, Goa

We had couples’ massages at the O Spa in the Sobit Sarovar Portico resort in Palolem. We had a good experience, but if you have specific needs or problem areas, be sure to communicate them to your massage therapist ahead of time.

Dining in and around Palolem Beach, Goa

Art Resort

We were in such a relaxed state that we ate here twice… the live music was great, the atmosphere perfect (as I mentioned), and the food delicious. They emphasize buying fresh ingredients daily from the local market, which explains why the seafood tasted so fresh. Rather than trying to be a purely Goan restaurant, they cater to the international mix of travelers in Palolem with a menu that ranges from Goan fish curries to tandoori dishes, pastas, burgers, salads, and fresh seafood.

We sat at a table on the sand, together on the same side as we usually do, watching the waves roll in and allowing their rhythmic breaths to lull us into a state of relaxation. We had seafood fried rice, butter chicken, and numerous other seafood dishes during our time here, and everything was delicious; however,it was the people, the service, the music, and the vibe made this place special.

Namaste Grill

We found a place with a very interesting Indian pizza and had to try it. This was a lovely little cafe decorated in vibrant colors and I highly recommend checking it out.

Ton’s Cafe

We had breakfast here one morning. It was located right across the street from Art Resort and had a lovely open-air dining room on the second floor. Serving sizes were massive, and we could not finish our food.

Rama’s Homecooked Fish Rice

Our bartender at Art Resort recommended this place and we are glad he did! We took a Gab from Art Resort to Rama’s Home Cooked Fish Rice in nearby Patnem. We ordered the traditional fish thali, a classic Goan meal served on a single platter with fragrant fish curry, steamed rice, freshly fried local fish, vegetables, papad, and house-made accompaniments. The meal was simple, fresh, and packed with flavor—proof that some of the best food in Goa is found in small, family-run restaurants rather than the beachfront tourist spots. We snuck a peak into the kitchen, which is actually someone’s. kitchen in their home.

The End

In short, I highly recommend incorporating Goa into your India travel itinerary if at all possible! I hear Christmas in Goa is an amazing experience, partially due to the Portuguese/ Catholic influence… one day!

We thought Goa would be our last stop in India. Then the world intervened. As tensions in the Middle East closed the skies over Dubai and our Emirates flight home disappeared, we found ourselves with an unexpected week to fill. Rather than rush home, we boarded an overnight train headed south, trading beach huts for Kerala’s tranquil backwaters and proving once again that some of the best adventures begin with a canceled flight.

Next time: how a canceled flight, an overnight train, and a rapidly improvised itinerary led us to Kerala—and one of the most unexpected highlights of our trip.